Many, many people suffer with allergy problems.  It is particularly bad in the Spring, but for some of us it’s a problem all year long.  If anyone in your family, especially children or the elderly, have difficulties with allergies, we have a solution: the Whole House Electronic Air Cleaner.

The best one we offer is the Honeywell F300, the most advanced and easy-to use solution for improving your indoor air quality. When installed into your home’s heating and cooling system, an Electronic Air Cleaner traps and filters up to 100% of airborne particles passing through the system to make sure cleaner air is distributed to all rooms in your home. It works by placing a charge on airborne particles and then collecting them like a magnet. Plus, Electronic Air Cleaners are low maintenance – simply wash the cells in your dishwasher or sink when needed.

We do offer other models that trap up to 85-97% of the particles, and even those are 10 times better than a standard one-inch furnace filter which only captures about 9%.

Please contact us if you are suffering and let us show you this solution. It could really improve your quality of life quickly!  Be Wiser — Call Kaiser!

Allergy Sufferers – Whole House Electronic Air Cleaner! T.A. Kaiser T.A. Kaiser - Heating and Air Inc.

Some of our clients have asked about the difference between a whole-house humidifier and a portable humidifier.  Is one better than the other?  For most homeowners, we recommend a whole house unit.  Here is the information that supports our position.

Both types are designed for the same purpose: to add water vapor into dry air in order to avoid health issues and prevent damage to the home and contents.  The difference in them is based in how many rooms you want to affect and how the water supply is provided.

A humidity level below 30 percent can cause throat irritation, dry nasal passages, nosebleeds and dry skin, as well as adversely affecting allergies and asthma.  Dry air also can cause splitting and cracking of wood moldings or hardwood floors, as well as musical instruments such as pianos, violins and cellos.  Antique furniture can be damaged by very dry air because it can shrink and crack.   A humidity level above 50% can also cause problems, including moisture damage and mold growth.  If the humidity level is kept in the range of 30-50 percent, many of the problems above will be prevented.

Whole-House Humidifiers

This type of unit is the least expensive, is added to the blower system on your furnace, and takes water directly from your water line.  They make no perceptible noise, and cost very little to install and operate.   The two main types either spray a mist into the air, or expose water to the air with a foam cylinder rotating in a tray of water.

These require almost no maintenance after a one-time setup.  You never have to fill it or worry that it has run dry.  The only drawback is that if the local water supply contains minerals, they can build up over time and harden on the spray jets.

Portable Humidifiers

Portable units are more expensive, are generally moved to the desired room on wheels, contain a refillable water tank, and operate on electricity.  They usually humidify one or two rooms, although you can purchase larger units that can handle a few rooms at once.

These would be appropriate for renters, or for those who cannot install a whole house unit.  The unit works fine in the room where it is, but if you move it, such as from the bedroom to the living room, it will take time for the dry air there to be humidified.  They are simple to operate and do a good job of keeping a smaller area humidified.

These units can be noisy when operating because they contain a fan to blow the moisture; it will sound similar to the fan on a window air conditioner.   Also, the water tank must be refilled regularly, and it has to be cleaned to eliminate bacteria.   Most units have removable tanks, but some require you to bring the water to the unit.

Want more information or advice on the best option for your situation?  Give us a call at 317-297-1622.  You can also use our contact page to request a quote or set up an appointment.  We’ll be glad to help you decide what to do.

Be Wiser – Call Kaiser!

Humidifiers – Whole House vs. Portable Unit T.A. Kaiser T.A. Kaiser - Heating and Air Inc.

We had a customer who called in recently to say that Jason did a wonderful job at her home that day.   She said that he took his time, explained things to her, and was just great all around.  She felt that people don’t call in often enough when someone is doing a great job, so she just wanted to make sure everyone knew how pleased she was with Jason. 

This is wonderful news to us, and we are so glad to hear this type of thing. Please let us know how we are doing after we have provided service to you.

Satisfaction Guarantee

T.A Kaiser Heating & Air, Inc. installation technicians are the best in skill, attitude and workmanship. They will care for your home and complete the job with speed and precision. They will not wear shoes on your carpets. They will clean up when they are finished and take personal responsibility for your satisfaction. They will not smoke or swear in your home and they are drug-free. If, when they have finished in your home, they have not performed in accordance with these high standards, you don’t pay until you are satisfied with the results.

Receiving Thanks from our Customers T.A. Kaiser T.A. Kaiser - Heating and Air Inc.

At the recent Indianapolis Home Show, TA Kaiser presented  a number of show-specials to everyone who came by, and we also had a drawing for a nice prize.  That prize was a CharBroil Six-Burner Gas Grill with Side Burner & Searing Burner.

We want to offer our congratulations to the lucky winners, Mr & Mrs Dickey of Indianapolis.  Here is a photo of the happy family receiving their prize from Chris Kaiser, General Manager of T.A. Kaiser Heating & Air, Inc.

Congratulations to the Winners! T.A. Kaiser T.A. Kaiser - Heating and Air Inc.

We all know that there are some things we can do ourselves, and some things we need a professional to do.   Heating and air conditioning repairs usually require a professional, but here are some simple maintenance ideas, homeowners tips, that you can do for yourself.  Following these tips can help to avoid the need for costly repairs, keep utility bills down, and maybe even add a few years to the life of the system.

 · Change the Air Filter Regularly – Filters are available at hardware stores, home centers, and many other places.   You can buy 30-day filters or 90-day filters, or even filters that can be washed and re-used.  Whatever kind you decide on, keep them clean.  Dirty filters make the unit work harder and cost you money.  They are usually very easy to change by just opening an access door and replacing the old one, so almost any homeowner can do it themselves.  

·  Clean and Protect the Outdoor Condensing Unit – This unit houses the coil and refrigerant which performs the heat transfer for your house so it needs free air flow.   If plants or bushes have grown up around it, trim them back so they are 18” or so away.   If leaves are stuck to the unit, or are piled close by, clean them up and move them away.    You can wash down the unit with a stream of water periodically, but be careful not to spray into the electrical connections.  Finally, when mowing, ensure that your mower doesn’t throw rocks which could puncture the coil and release the Freon.  Some people put a barrier in front of the unit to provide both a decorative touch and a layer of protection.   

· Control Heat Buildup – Some rooms in a home gain and store heat, particularly those with strong sun exposure and large windows.   To offset the gains, consider installing blinds, draperies, or reflective window film.  Each of these methods will cut down on the sunlight coming in so that the heat buildup will not be as great. 

· Keep Attic Air Flowing – There are vents on most homes which allow air to flow up and out through the attic, thereby removing the heat build-up caused by the sun on the roof.  Over time, those vents can get plugged by birds or insects or other causes.   It is a good idea to either spray them with water, or clean them with a shop-vac, or simply take them down and clean them with a brush.   Allowing cool air to enter the attic will reduce the load on the air conditioner and shorten the time it needs to run.

If you have any questions, give us a call at (317) 297-1622 or send us a note through our on-line contact forms.   We will be glad to answer your questions.  Remember: Be wiser, call Kaiser!

Four Simple Tips for Homeowners T.A. Kaiser T.A. Kaiser - Heating and Air Inc.

The post last week was Part 1 on this topic, and it included an overview of how the system was installed.  In this week’s post, we’ll get into a little more detail of how it worked and the overall cost of the system.

If you remember from Part 1, the PEX tubing was buried in the concrete in a series of loops like coils in a heater core.   The end of each loop was hooked to a brass manifold, which was connected to pump, which was connected  to the water heater in the garage.  All the water moved between the two buildings through triple-insulated underground pipes that pretty much eliminated any heat loss during the transfer time.

As the hot water passed through the tubing inside the concrete, the loops radiated (or gave off) heat energy from the hot water.    This had the effect of warming the concrete pad, which retained the heat energy pretty well.  This was due to the fact that the bottom of the pad was sitting on insulation, and the top of the pad was surrounded by the insulated walls and roof of the shop building.   The thermostat cycled on and off as needed to keep the air temperature in the room at a consistent level, and was so quiet that I never knew when it was running.

There was no need for any sheet metal ducting, air filtration, or even a fan to circulate the heat.  All of those items are required for a typical central heating system, but were unnecessary with the radiant floor system.   When the thermostat called for heat, hot water was pulled from the garage water heater into the shop floor, while the older, cooler water was pushed back to the garage to be re-heated.  The same water was used over and over because it was a “closed-loop” system.  An “open-loop” system would have incorporated fresh water into the system but would also have required a permit to dump the water into the environment, so we chose the “closed-loop” option.  There were no chemicals added to the system, so the same water that circulated through the pex tubing could become bath water, washing machine water, or used for any other hot water purpose in the house.

The cost of the energy to heat the building was so minimal that I hardly noticed it, because it was basically just the extra natural gas used in the water heater.   My guess on the incremental cost for heating the shop building would be $10-20/month, because a lot of energy is already wasted in every water heater just keeping the water hot all the time, even when you are not using it, like at night.  I could tell that we were using the water heater more when the weather turned cold, and the gas bill went up a little because the slab of concrete had to be fully heated; however, once it was heated I could not tell any extra usage through the winter.   The gas bill went down a little in the spring when I turned off the radiant heat, but not by much.  Overall, I would say the cost of the gas and power to run the electric pump was significantly less than I would have spent with a gas furnace.

We sold that house a few years later and moved across the country, but we strongly recommend to everyone that they consider radiant heating in their home.  If I ever build another home or other building, it will have radiant floor heating.   My wife and I really enjoyed it.

If you want to pamper yourself or your loved ones with a heated flooring system, give us a call or send us a note through our on-line contact form.  We would be glad to explain the options available to you.  Remember: Be wiser, call Kaiser!

Radiant Heating for Floors (Part 2) T.A. Kaiser T.A. Kaiser - Heating and Air Inc.

One of the most comforting projects you can do to a home or a shop is to add a radiant heated floor.   On cold days you can feel the heat rise up through your feet and spread through your whole body.  Everything in the room is warm and there is no noise from the system.  Radiant heat is very nice, especially in a bathroom, and everyone who uses it will appreciate it.  I know that from personal experience.

A few years ago, my wife and I built a shop building behind our house with a radiant heated floor.   It was a 48’ by 24” building designed for both us, split in the middle so that we each had about 24’ by 24’ of space for our hobbies, which was quilting for my wife and woodworking for me.   We considered installing a natural gas furnace like the one in the house, but we were concerned that the fan would circulate tiny particles of saw dust into her quilts.  So, we started looking at radiant floor heating and soon discovered it was only a little more expensive to install with new construction than a gas furnace.

The installation included digging a hole, installing crushed stone and rigid foam insulation, and then putting in loops of PEX tubing to form a pattern similar to a heating coil.  The crushed stone provided strength, support and drainage.  The rigid foam underneath the floor was to prevent the heat energy in the concrete floor from passing through into the ground.  The PEX tubing was looped and then wired to the grid of metal construction rod (rebar) before the concrete was poured so that the tubing would not move.  After the tubing was wired firmly in place, the concrete slab was poured around it so that the tubing was sealed inside.    The estimated life of the PEX was somewhere around 100 years, and they have to estimate because PEX hasn’t been in existence long enough to know for sure.  It may last even longer inside the concrete.

So that’s the story on how how we got started on radiant floor heating.  We loved it and so did every guest who visited and felt the warmth coming up.   Now you know how the components are installed, and in Part 2, we’ll talk about how the heat is circulated and controlled.

If you are considering adding radiant heat to your building, give us a call at (317) 297-1622.  We’ll be glad to answer any questions you have and provide a free estimate of the costs involved.   Be Wiser — Call Kaiser!

Radiant Heating for Floors (Part 1) T.A. Kaiser T.A. Kaiser - Heating and Air Inc.

Stormy weather in the winter or spring can knock down limbs, short out power lines, and cause many inconvenient situations for you.   Bad weather can also present significant safety challenges for the elderly, for those needing powered medical equipment, and for children.   Having the power off for an hour or two can be fun, maybe even a little exciting, but what if a severe storm left you without power for a few days — or a week?    A backup generator is always worth considering. 

Don’t just go buy one now; start by thinking about exactly what risks your family would face if the power was out.  Here are some considerations:

1.     Are there neighbors or nearby family members who have a generator, so that you could you go to their house for safety?

2.     Do you live in a hard-to-reach area where repair crews would be slow to arrive?

3.     Do you have a gas or wood burning fireplace, or some other source of safe heat in your home?    Remember – the fireplace fan won’t circulate the heat.

4.     Are their small children or anyone with serious health problems in your home?

5.     Could you prepare food without electricity, such as on a gas range?

Once you’ve thought about the risks, decide what parts of your electrical system would be critical for your family to keep operating.   The two main types of residential generators are portable and permanent standby.  If you have natural gas appliances and a wood stove, and only need a few circuits to be operational, you might be alright with a portable generator.  However, if you have an all electric home or you need to run the furnace and a well pump and a freezer, you will need a permanent standby model to power multiple circuits.   For an easy way to determine the wattage you need, Consumer Reports has provided a convenient calculator at this link.

Backup systems run on a variety of fuels, such as gasoline, propane or natural gas, and can be purchased and customized to operate only the critical circuits you really need.   Today’s backup generators come in a variety of sizes, are relatively affordable, and can keep your family safe.   Prices for equipment and installation can run from approximately $1,500 to over $10,000, but that may be inexpensive when you compare it to the risks to your family.     Remember: Be wiser, call Kaiser!

Is a Backup Generator Sensible for Me? T.A. Kaiser T.A. Kaiser - Heating and Air Inc.

The installation price of a geothermal system can be several times that of a conventional gas or electric system of the same heating and cooling capacity, but the total lifetime cost is lower.  There are differences in the equipment, but also because there is the additional cost of drilling or digging to install the ground loop in the earth.  In new construction, where digging is already being done, this differential cost is lower than it would be in retrofitting an existing home.  The cost of drilling also will vary depending on the terrain and other local factors.  Although the upfront costs for geothermal are more, those additional costs are returned in energy savings fairly quickly, approximately 5–10 years.  Studies show that approximately 70 percent of the energy used in a geothermal heat pump system came from the ground.

Additionally, the maintenance costs of geothermal systems are much lower.  Filter changes are the only routine maintenance required, unlike other conventional systems which should be checked and cleaned once or twice per year.  Finally, the system can provide hot water if it is equipped with a “desuperheater”, which reduces cost in that area. 

Also, there are Federal and many State tax incentives that apply to purchasing this type of system.  Since system life is estimated at 25 years for the inside components and 50+ years for the ground loop, this type of system will be much more economical over its lifetime on a “cost/per year” basis.  

According to www.energysavers.gov, there are approximately 50,000 geothermal heat pumps installed in the United States each year.  We are proud to sell and install these systems, and would be glad to help you if you are considering purchasing one.   We are experts in this area, so give us a call at 317-297-1622 or click on our quote request form.  Remember: Be wiser, call Kaiser!

The Cost of Geothermal (Part 3 of 3) T.A. Kaiser T.A. Kaiser - Heating and Air Inc.

Geothermal heating systems use natural heat from the ground, which occurs there because the sun warms the earth, and because heat radiates out from the earth’s core.   This eliminates the need to buy a fuel source (such as natural gas) and the need to burn it, which means there is no flame inside a geothermal unit, and there are no exhaust gases.   

 In Part 1, we identified the three elements: a ground loop, a heat pump and a circulation system.   This is how those three pieces work together.

• The ground loop is a system of piping, usually plastic or copper, which is buried or drilled into the earth, or is placed in a nearby body of water.   The purpose of the loop is to route the fluid in the pipes so that it either gathers or releases heat energy.  The fluid in the loop is water or an environmentally safe antifreeze solution that circulates through the pipes in a closed system.  The length of the loop may be dozens or even hundreds of feet, and it may be arranged in vertical, horizontal, or other layouts as this illustration from www.greenbuildingtruth.com shows.     

• The heat pump consists of an electrically driven compressor and a heat exchanger.  This equipment extracts and concentrates the heat, then releases it at a higher temperature in the home.   Using the relatively constant temperature of the ground allows geothermal systems to reach efficiencies of 300%-600% on the coldest of winter nights, whereas other heat pumps using ambient air temperatures only reach 175%-250% on cool days. This means that geothermal will be at least 2-3 times more efficient than other heat pumps.
• The circulation system, or ductwork, distributes the heat to different rooms.  There is no difference in this element for geothermal systems over other types of heating and cooling systems.  When replacing an existing furnace with a geothermal system, the ductwork will not need to be changed unless it is faulty.

Although we have been talking about heating, the process is the same for cooling, but reversed.  In summer, the fluid in the underground loop carries excess heat away from the house and allows it to be absorbed by the Earth.  The system cools your home in the same way that a refrigerator keeps your food cool – by drawing heat from the interior, not by blowing in cold air.

In Part 3, we’ll discuss the cost of a geothermal system.  If you have any questions, give us a call or (link: ask the experts.)  We also have some photos and additional information at this web page.

Geothermal – How Does it Work? (Part 2 of 3) T.A. Kaiser T.A. Kaiser - Heating and Air Inc.